Day 12 // Hontanas – Fromista // 36.9 km

They offered us breakfast at the auberge, so we decided to eat there and then left at 6.30 AM. This morning is cold, my thighs and hands are freezing. But the morning is magical. Before the sun has risen, the sky is pink-blue and the moon is shining.

Yesterday I thought about if it's going to get easier. Will there be a day where nothing hurts? And nothing hurts this morning. I am surprised and I remembered what Artur from Belarus told me - you can ask for anything you want on this journey. Even a local lady on the street. I'm feeling a little excited because I thought about it yesterday and today it happened. I am walking and feeling grateful! Even 5 pain-less kilometers would be a gift! And believe it or not, but until the 20th kilometer, nothing hurt. Of course, after 20 kilometers, the legs are tired, feet are tired. But it was magical. 

I am walking and can't get warm. We have a mountain in front of us.

The next kilometer is going uphill. I get a bit warmer. Walking up the hill, the feeling is amazing.

A group of French cyclists pass me. They stop at the mountain top to take a photo. I took a photo of them for me and offered them to take another with their camera, for them. They were really happy, and I was too. 

Everyone wishes me Buen Camino!

And then a steep path downhill. I was really shocked. I was walking and I kept saying 'wow,wow'. The photo doesn't do the justice. A feeling of infinity. And I believe that ones infinity is bigger than the others. It depends on how big our ambitions are. Our belief of existence and things.

And the endless sunflower fields.

Something new shows up on the path - corn fields! 

We stop at a cafe, to rest.

After a while a small group of pilgrims enter the yard, where one of them has a tiny guitar and she played 'Stand By Me' and everyone was singing. Around 30 people. That really lifted my spirit. I had a feeling the girl really sung out her pain and though moments through songs.

Our auberge tonight is at a very beautiful village - Fromista, which is right next to a canal.

After a quick recovery break we go to the center of the village, because we got a valuable piece of information from other pilgrims. There is a pharmacy in Framista that makes a great gel for popped blisters, and a gel for muscles and feet - for massages. I highly recommend! Your feet will be grateful. And they only make it here. Both products cost 12 euros.

After that we headed to our dinner place. In bigger villages they offer foot massages. We're sitting in a cafe, eating and I see a sign for foot massage. We asked, but we regretted it instantly. Because the same cook, that just made our burgers, is doing foot massages when there are no clients. #fail

Today the auberge is not really convincing, so I can finally use my anti insect spray. I hope everything will be fine. 

Tomorrow morning is supposed to be even colder, only 6 degrees. And my warmest clothes are leggings and a sweater. That's gonna be fun! 

Thank you, Santiago, for a pain-free and magical day! 

Goodnight!