Day 17 // Leon – Villar de Mazarife // 21.9 km

Huge beds and good hotels are overrated. I had nightmares all night. But breakfast fixed it all. So many options and so much food to "steal" and take with me. 

The Spanish people must be a singing nation as well. As I leave the city, there is a man walking in front of me and humming a song. I catch up with him at the intersection and he asks me if I’m going to Santiago. I said yes and he said Buen Camino. I’m pretty good at Spanish that I can understand and reply to someone. That’s nice! 

It is a calm city morning. The cafe’s are getting ready for a new day. A man is cleaning the main street up to the cathedral. These mornings give me sort of an inner peace. There are not a lot of people on the streets. And I leave the city at peace, which is nice, since it is going to be completely opposite of it later today.

Today I choose an alternative route. Oftentimes there are multiple options. The main path is taking you right by the highway, the alternative one - through country fields. I much rather enjoy a walk through a meadow in the middle of nowhere, instead of the noise that the highway makes.

And tomorrow night these routes will meet again in the town Astorga. I choose to walk the green path. 

Today has been pretty good in terms of hiking and the first break I take only when I reach the 18th kilometer. The last 500 meters until the bench were pretty tough though, because my feet were creaming for a quick massage and a change of socks and shoes. 

As I sat on the bench, I spoke to two mothers from the UK. We can hear some horns. But not as if you were sitting in traffic and beeped only once, but like non-stop! It turns out it was a car that transports bread. And even after 10 minutes we still hear it. And later at the auberge we see another car like that. I don’t think anyone here is deaf.

Today was a pretty easy day as well and I reach the auberge already at 12.30 PM.

I did some calculations yesterday and to reach my destination on time, I would have to walk approximately 28 kilometers per day. Today I hiked less kilometers because the next auberge is only in 15 kilometers, which would be too much for one day, considering I only left the hotel at 8 AM. I have a feeling like I haven’t done enough today. The rest of the day is free. But later as I got outside I thought it’s good that I have this time off. I could send you like 10 degrees of summer.

When I left the auberge at 4 PM to take a little walk around the village, I felt the heat. Not a bit of wind and no people outside on the streets.

All of the houses have got their windows closed. Hiding from the sun. As I walk further I hear people. It’s a bar. Now I know where everyone is.

I buy my refreshing everyday Coca-Cola and get into people-watching. I guess all the men that live in this village are here. About 5 tables are playing cards and dominoes. And they’re so passionate about the way they play. I wonder what are the village ladies doing right now. Cooking dinner? 

I started thinking whether this bar was just for men, because of the wifi password, haha!

Of course, the store was closed at this time as well. It will be open from 6 to 7, that’s when I’ll come back. 

I’m enjoying the peacefulness, the relaxing, and having nothing to do. I do not miss the business of Riga. Not yet. 

For inspiration:

Stay calm!