Day 30 // Muxia – Finisterre // 33 km

I wanted to get up in time for sunrise this morning, but when the alarm went off and I checked the forecast, I saw that it is supposed to be cloudy and I let myself sleep in a little bit. I got out pretty late, but I still wanted to spend some time by the ocean. I went over there. I fed an entire loaf of bread to birds. I enjoyed the sounds of the ocean. And peace. 

Since we hadn't arranged a specific time to meet at with the boys, I started the day alone with the thought that we may run into each other during the day, but it didn't end up happening. I lost track of time while sitting by the ocean and I left the city a little after 10 AM.

It was quite hard to find the exit from the city, since there were not many signs and if there were any - they were showing the way to the opposite direction. Mostly everyone is going from Finisterre to Muxia. I asked a couple of locals for directions and finally got out. 

Later I could see double the amount of signs and with two arrows showing which direction which city is. 

F←→ M 

Good thing that there was a bakery on my way out of the city and that I bought a croissant and a tuna pastry, because there was absolutely nothing along the way. After 10 kilometers there was only a little booth with a toilet and a vending machine with drinks.

While I was sitting by it and resting my legs an old lady from the house across the road comes up to me and starts speaking in Spanish. Realizing I wasn't a local, she asked me if I was Italian. I replied saying I'm from Latvia. She put her hands on her head and said: “Mi madre! Mi madre!” I calmed her down by saying that I am almost at the finish line in Finisterre. She wished me well and left. 

The road today was taking me through the forests. And I was saying goodbye to them. Because I can't possibly imagine when else am I going to spend so much time in the forest.

Only when I was at 18th kilometer of the day I see the ocean again. It gives out a fresh breeze and also inner strength for me.

It's hard. Mentally and physically. Mentally, because I know I am almost done, but it feels like kilometers that I am supposed to still hike are not getting less. Physically I feel like this is the last bit I could give, I'm running extremely low on batteries. The last couple of days had a long distance per day to get through. And I'm thinking that if I had to do another day - I probably would not have any strength to do it. But maybe it is all in my head from knowing that the end of this is very close. The legs are pushing my tired body forward. 

5 kilometers to go and I see the ocean again on my left. And I know I only have to get to the finish line. No more detours, only a straight road - until the tip of the world.

The people that were coming the opposite direction of me in the last 2 kilometers were saying Buen Camino very differently. Intonation, attitude, tone and the facial expressions were completely different because they realize that I am less than an hour away from reaching what I was waiting for for so long. And each and every Buen Camino got me tearing up. The Spaniards believe in the Camino very much and are proud of it so they live it vicariously through everyone. Including me. 

I see people coming towards me in the distance. I look across the highway and I see a bright green and orange colors. Familiar ones for me. And I yell: ”Oh my God!” and I hear from across the highway: ”Aaaa, Agnes!” I jumped the road barrier! I am running with tears in my eyes! I hug Sasha and G! It is impossible to explain this moment. It was truly magical. That was truly a Camino moment. I am crying and they're hugging me and giving me kisses. I then see Antonio and we hug too. Today multiple times I prayed to see them again. And we hadn't communicated in a couple days. 

After our magical meet up we say goodbye for a little bit, because I had to finish my hike. We'll see each other later and talk all about it. 

And there I was! At the tip of the world. I am hanging in there. I took a photo to commemorate this for myself and for you.

I stepped aside to just take it all in for a moment. Tears are falling down my cheeks. I am so grateful that this was possible. 

I am at the end, but a month ago I started so so far away.

It's pretty late and I have to get to the auberge. In hopes that they haven't cancelled my reservation. But that felt secondary to me. I wanted to see the tip of the world and go there with my big bag that I had been carrying around for 30 days. 

As I was going back, a girl from a car that was going towards me yelled: “You did it!” You can easily spot a pilgrim here and everyone knows how important this moment is. And are happy with you. Every shout out gives me goosebumps and makes me tear up. It truly is an emotional roller coaster today. 

Before I go to the auberge I wanted to find the info center or a pilgrims office to get the Compostela. And to find out where my auberge is. 

I walked out to the main street looking around for signs. And then I heard: “Agnes, Agnes!” Oh my God! I saw two guys jump out of their seats at a bar and run towards me, it was Diego and Lorenzo! Everyone from the old crew is here! I wasn't that close with these guys as I was with the girls, but the hugs I got I will never forget. They were warm and you could tell they came from the heart. All of them were here because they got to Santiago a day later than I did and took the bus here. The congratulations I got were so meaningful. They were so happy for me. Another couple that remembered me bowed down and clapped for me. It's all real. I can't even comprehend yet what I've done. 

G and Antonio went back to Santiago tonight, but Sasha and I went back to the tip of the world to watch the sunset. We stopped at a grocery store to grab snacks and decided to grab champagne too (which was actually a cider, 4,1%) 

What happened after is not possible to explain. I had never experienced that kind of evening and probably never will. People were sitting on the rocks to watch the sunset. We climbed down a lot further to be alone. That was the most beautiful sunset I've ever seen in my life. It was so peaceful. I felt so happy. We were sitting there, we expressed our gratitude, we breathed, we gave back. The mountain goats were spotted not far from us. They were walking around us. Am I sane enough to take in all the beauty that is happening right now? 

I'll let the photos speak.

 As the sun went down, we cut off another one of my hippie braid.

We decided to throw it in the ocean to let all the problems go away and all the wishes come true. But it was not possible to do it there. We went the other way through the dark. We were climbing down the rocks. We came to realize we won't get down to the ocean so I tied it around a rock. Sasha said to take some time for my thoughts. It all happened with the moon reflecting from the ocean, fully in the dark and in quiet. When I gathered my thoughts I spent the rest of the strength that I had left to throw the rock in the ocean. I think I did. 

Another notable thing - before Santiago I went to the nail salon and put butterflies on my nails and a quote on one nail. During this month all the butterflies had flown away and only one nail still had the original thing, the one with the quote. And it said - be happy! And I was happy here!

I can't imagine a better ending to my Camino. It was amazing. It was unique. I will never forget it. I'll always have this with me. 

I'm so thankful!