When I was leaving the hotel the receptionist asked me if I needed a cab. Would be nice, but no, not today. It is very dark outside. Very, very, super dark. You couldn't even see anything without the flashlight in the forest. When I got up the mountain I took a last glance at the Cathedral. Very beautiful!
I passed about 10 pilgrims this morning. And saw around 20 altogether today. So there are not that many that choose to hike to the ocean.
It is raining a little bit but I don't mind. I was walking through a village when I saw this little puppers nose.
I pet him and he was licking my hands. I continued my hike and he ran after me on his side of the fence. Before I left for good I pet him again and he licked my face. He would love to come with me.
I had no breakfast at the hotel this time. I thought I'd eat in the first village. There were a lot of them but quite small and nothing really got my attention. And it is also Saturday. I kept walking and every once in a while there is a sign about a bar being nearby. I saw it when I reached my 10th kilometer of the day. I saw a pilgrim already sitting on the patio. After I sat down, another woman came. We were all hungry. The bar was closed. The sign said it'd be open at 9 AM with a note telling people to be patient if the owner is late. Alright, I'll wait 10 minutes. Of course, no one is here yet. The roof of the patio is covered with fruits.
I picked a kiwi. It was green. I put it in the bag in hopes of it being ready to eat when I get home. I realized no one's going to feed me here. And the rain has gotten a bit stronger too. I cover my bag and put a poncho on. I kept walking. The path is mostly taking me upwards. No breakfast - no energy. It's hard.
I saw a little house in a bit.
Thank you for this. I took an apple and a pear. I was walking and really felt like a bum - hungry, wet from head to toe, with my head down.
It was only when I reached my 16th kilometer of the day that I saw a bar that was open. It has been like this in Spain - if I don't see the thing I'm ordering in the showcase I don't really know what I've ordered until they bring it to me. Because I don't understand all the names and also in different places the same word could mean different things. I ordered. When I got my food, people in the bar told me 'bon appetit' while laughing. They said it would be enough for me for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Of course I am not able to eat it all at once. I asked for a bag to get it to go and the owner got a piece of foil. Sweet! I don't have to worry about lunch now.
In general I've gotten really tired. I am walking as if I was a robot. It's though. I also did not sleep too well these last two nights. And the walking up and down. I realized that if someone I knew really well showed up, I'd say I can't do it anymore. But very often we don't realize how powerful we can be. Especially when we are alone. And our body is our greatest instrument.
As soon as I get these sad thoughts, I get a beautiful view.
I reach the town Negrero and I walk up to the info center to get a stamp in my pilgrims passport. I keep walking until I hear a man say to me - the auberge is 2 minutes that way! I said I'm going further. I didn't even mention that I am only halfway done with today. It gets though from thought alone that I still have 20 kilometers to go and other pilgrims are already done and relaxing and the auberges.
Today's path is taking me through the forests again. At some points I feel like I'm walking through the botanical garden because I see many different shrubs growing.
This was super green! WOW! The colors change so often.
I met Alexander from Germany today. We walked together for about 5 kilometers. We reach his destination. I walked into the auberge with him because I wanted to see if they would call to the next auberge and book me a bed. Because it is already afternoon and I still have 9 kilometers to go. They called and everything was fine. There was plenty of room, since there are not a lot of pilgrims. Alexander asks me if I have the new pilgrims passport. What? I have the one I have. Turns out there is another pilgrims passport for the route to Finisterre from Santiago. Because they give you another Compostela in Finisterre. And a bartender this morning had said to him that they don't put stamps in the old one and that you need a new one. I asked the owners here and they said that you can get them in the old one as well. What's the difference anyway?
I continued my hike. A couple of kilometers before the finish line of the day I met Francesca from USA. She's doing Camino Norte. Oh, I wish she wouldn't have showed me the photos. The first part of her journey was taking her right by beautiful beaches. She said she was swimming almost every evening. Auberges with a sea view and beaches. The Norte path is a bit longer and joins the French Camino only a day before reaching Santiago de Compostela. She laughed - next year, Agnes!
I bought bananas and nuts for tomorrow at the auberge so I don't end up like I did this morning.
If some people still aren't clear on where my path is taking me.
Sorry, I am very tired today, so goodnight. The sky tonight was magical.
With love!
Notes
- Breakfast - 4.30 EUR
- Coca-Cola and banana - 3.30 EUR
- Coca-Cola - 1.60 EUR
- Tea, nuts, bananas - 4.30 EUR
- Auberge - 12 EUR
- Distance walked - 45.5 km